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Saturday, July 26, 2014

Agena Astro/Starguider/Zhumell 8-24mm zoom eyepiece

For Father's Day I received an 8-24mm zoom eyepiece from Agena Astro.  I asked for this eyepiece to complement the 30mm SuperView and 9mm Plossl that came with my Apertura AD10 Dobsonian telescope.  As I'm fairly new to astronomy, I figured a zoom would be a good way to have a range of focal lengths, I'm not sure what focal lengths I will use the most.  I also wanted one that would have a comfortable eye relief for use while wearing my glasses, which my 9mm Plossl doesn't.

Before asking for this specific eyepiece, I did some research online.  Many people recommended the Meade zoom, which I considered, but I also found the Zhumell zoom, which appears to be the same as the one Agena Astro sells.  The one from Agena Astro is labelled Starguider.  It has markings for 8, 12, 16, and 24mm, but there are no stops, so you can't tell exactly where you are set.  That doesn't matter much though, as long as the view is good, I don't care about the exact focal length.
Most of the zoom lenses on the market have specs similar to the Agena Astro zoom:

  • 8-24mm focal length
  • 40-60 degree apparent field of view
  • 15-18mm eye relief
One feature that the Agena zoom has that I didn't see listed on other brands (although they have have it as well) is that you can pull off the rubber eye cup and there are T threads underneath.  You can get a T adapter for a DSLR camera and mount it directly to the eyepiece for projection astrophotography, which I will try at some point.
They eyepiece comes with covers on both ends, which I read some other brands don't.  It also comes in a nice bolt case, which protects the eyepiece quite nicely.

One thing to be aware of is that the filter threads at the bottom of the eyepiece are obstructed by the inner workings of the zoom.  I found I could only screw my moon filter on about half way.

So, how does it work?  Quite nicely!  The field of view at 24mm isn't quite as wide as my 30mm SuperView, but it still covers a good area.  The image was crisp and bright at 24mm.  Zooming is done by twisting the textured barrel, which rotates smoothly.  As some reviews noted with the Zhumell zoom, it isn't parfocal.  As you zoom in and out, you need to refocus a bit.  

When zooming in, the image dims significantly, as expected.  Switching to a smaller focal length fixed eyepiece has the same effect.  For bright objects, like planets, zooming all the way in might work well.  I found I wasn't going further than about 12mm most of the time.  I haven't tried it Barlowed yet, but I expect it to work well at 2x.

I found it comfortable to view with the eyepiece with my glasses at all focal lengths.  The rubber eye cup folds down, so it's easy to get closer.  I didn't have to move around to see the full field of view like with my 9mm Plossl.

Overall, I'm quite happy with this eyepiece.  Eventually I will probably buy some fixed focal length eyepieces with wider fields of view, but this zoom should keep me happy for quite a while.  The price is quite reasonable too.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Some observing, a light shield and knob for my AD10, and an observing "hood"

I was finally able to get out and do some observing.  It's a pain that it gets dark so late, and in my area, it quite often clouds over just as it's getting dark this time of year.  Anyway, I was able to use my leveling base and setting circle for the first time.

For my first object, I didn't need to use the setting circle.  I pointed my scope at the constellation Lyra, centering it right between the stars Sheliak and Sulafat in my finder.  I popped my 30mm eyepiece in and there was M57, the Ring Nebula.  It was quite small, so I switched to my 30mm with the 2x Barlow and got a better view.  Finally, I switched to my 8-24 zoom eyepiece.  After a bit of experimentation, I found my best view at around 12mm.  8mm gave a larger view, but it got a bit too dim.

After enjoying that view for a bit, it was time to try out the setting circles to find my first globular cluster, M3.  I went back to the 30mm and centered my scope on Arcturus.  Checking SkEye on my phone, I found the altitude and azimuth, set the azimuth pointer on my base, and noted the altitude on my Alti-Gauge (which was off a little over a degree).  I then found the coordinates of M3 and swung the scope to that locate.  I didn't see M3 in my field, so I started panning around a bit.  There it was, just outside my view, very easy to spot in the 30mm.  Again I went to my 8-24 zoom and found 12mm was the best view.  At that setting, M3 was still bright enough to see clearly and I was able to resolve many stars.

I tried for M92 and M13, but they were very close to the zenith and I didn't have any luck.  I also tried for M51, but also no luck.  I probably looked at it but couldn't see it due to the light pollution.

Speaking of light pollution, I tried a couple of different things to help out.  First, I made a light shield for my Apertura AD10 dobsonian telescope.  I've read that this has made a difference for some people, but I didn't find any benefit from it myself.  Here's how I did it if you want to try anyway.

The best paper I could find was black poster board from Wal-Mart.  Other stores carried stuff they called poster board, but it was more like construction paper and was pretty floppy.  The Wal-Mart stuff is quite thick and stiff.  First, I laid out two sheets overlapping a couple of inches and aligned as straight as possible. Lay them out the long direction. I used packing tape on one side only to attach them together.  As you can see in the picture, the paper is more dark grey than black and is kind of shiny.  To cut this down a bit, I sprayed what would be the inside with flat black paint.  I didn't put tape on the inside because it's shiny and painting over it would cause the paint to flake off into the scope, not a good idea.

Next, I measured around the circumference of the end ring of the scope, which came out to 38.5".  I measured and marked the paper and that position, then cut off the extra a couple of inches past my mark.  I put tape along the edge that will be the bottom of the tube to reinforce it.  I then rolled the paper, lined up with the mark, and used more tape to complete the tube.

This light shield slips over the end of the scope and stretches very slightly to slip over the four mounting screws for the spider, giving a very secure fit.  Look through the focuser without an eyepiece and you can see whether it's obstructing the view at all.

I tried the light shield, and to test whether it made a difference, while observing M3 I pulled off the light shield.  I couldn't discern any difference in the view, contrast, or background with the shield on or off.  I also tried looking at some objects when I was facing my neighbors yard, where they have a very bright patio light.  Still no difference.  It may work better if I actually flocked the light shield instead of just painting it, but I don't know if I'll bother with that.  I would like to flock my scope tube at some point, hopefully that will help.

Notice that when the light shield is on, the end of the scope is covered so you can't grab it to point the scope.  To deal with that, I installed a nice "comfort grip" knob.




I used part 60975K75 from McMaster-Carr.  This is a 1.5" diameter round knob with a 1/4-20 insert.  The knob is positioned below the spider mounts so the light shield fit properly.  To drill the hole, I laid the scope tube flat, masked off the area to catch all of the scraps, and carefully drilled a 1/4" hole.  I vacuumed the scrap out after drilling.  Make sure none of scrap falls down to the mirror.  I used a 1/4-20 stainless bolt, two washers, and a nylon locknut for mounting.  I painted the head of the bolt and one of the washers flat black before installing.

Although the light shield didn't help as I had hoped, I did find another suggestion online that is a bit benefit.  Some people throw a towel over their head to block out stray light (insert Hitchhiker's Guide To The Galaxy joke here).  This works ok, but is a bit awkward.  The suggestion I found was to use a dark T-shirt, slip it over just your head, then pull it up over they eyepiece to observe.  This worked very well, especially when I held it closed under the eyepiece as well, to block out reflection from the ground.  I had to be sure to leave some opening though, otherwise my breath would start to fog the eyepiece.  I am thinking of a design to deal with this.  I'll post it if it works out.